TRAVEL: A Utah Journey: Family, Red Rock, and Bed & Breakfast Charm

Some trips stand out not just for where you go, but for who you’re with. For my husband and me, a recent journey through Utah was about both—the stunning landscapes of its national parks and the joy of sharing them with our son, daughter-in-law, and grandson. From red rock cliffs to quiet evenings in small-town bed-and-breakfasts, it was a trip filled with beauty, laughter, and moments we’ll treasure forever.

Our adventure began at Zion National Park, a place known for its towering sandstone cliffs, narrow canyons, and unforgettable trails. Standing among cliffs that rise nearly 3,000 feet, with deep canyons and the Virgin River winding through the valley, we were in awe of the park’s dramatic landscape.

While lodging is available inside the park, it’s more expensive and often books up quickly, so reservations must be made well in advance. Since our trip came together at the last minute, we stayed in Springdale, the small town just outside the entrance. Staying inside would have given us earlier access to the trails, but our hotel offered both convenience and flexibility. We arrived late in the evening but were up at daylight, eager to explore the park in the cooler morning hours before the heat and crowds arrived.

The next morning, we drove into the park. Many visitors leave their cars in Springdale and take the free shuttle into the park, but with baby gear to manage, driving our own car felt like the easier choice. Once inside, the Scenic Drive is open only to the park’s shuttle system. Running every few minutes, the buses make nine stops at trailheads and viewpoints, giving everyone a chance to hop on and off as they please. The full loop takes about 45 minutes, and it’s a relaxing, stress-free way to experience the park while helping protect its beauty for future visitors.

We took the shuttle to Riverside Walk, a paved 2.2-mile round trip that follows the Virgin River. The cool morning air, the sound of rushing water, and canyon walls closing in around us created a peaceful atmosphere. At the trail’s end, the path meets the river at the start of the Narrows, where hikers continue by wading or swimming through the water. While the more adventurous pressed on, Grandma and Grandpa stayed back with the baby, content to enjoy the view and the fresh canyon air.

By the time we returned to our car later in the morning, several vehicles were waiting for our parking space—a reminder of just how quickly Zion fills up.

From Zion, we drove about an hour and a half to a town just outside Bryce Canyon National Park. Whenever possible, my husband and I choose a bed and breakfast over a hotel. We enjoy the comfort, charm, and personal touches that make each stay unique. We had booked a B&B in Panguitch that worked out perfectly for our family. Not every B&B welcomes babies, but this one was set up with private suites opening to the outdoors. We had use of a grill to cook supper and picnic tables for enjoying meals outside.

Even in summer, mornings in Southern Utah were refreshingly cool—the perfect time for exploring. By now, we had learned the rhythm of desert travel: rise early, hike and explore in the calm morning light, then save a leisurely lunch or indoor activities for the heat of the afternoon.

Bryce Canyon National Park features a scenic 18-mile road with popular viewpoints. At the heart of Bryce Canyon lies the park’s largest and most iconic feature—the Bryce Amphitheater. Stretching for miles along the rim, this massive natural bowl is filled with thousands of hoodoos—slender, colorful spires of rock sculpted by erosion. Painted in shades of rose, terracotta, and cream, they resembled a giant outdoor sculpture gallery. Trails wind through these stone towers and along the rim. Since our grandson loves the outdoors, we took our time—stopping at overlooks and hiking a couple of the easier trails.

After saying goodbye to our son and his family, my husband and I traveled east to Torrey, just outside Capitol Reef National Park. We had booked a bed and breakfast—the Torrey Schoolhouse Inn, a lovingly restored 1914 pioneer schoolhouse. Renovated in the early 2000s, it blends historic charm with modern comforts. Antique desks and original hardwood floors reflect its past, while the guest rooms are thoughtfully updated with cozy recliners, televisions, and modern amenities. Most rooms are located on the upper floors, where tall windows frame spectacular views of the surrounding red rock formations.

The quiet setting and inviting common areas create a relaxing retreat after a day of hiking and sightseeing. Each morning, when we came down for breakfast, the huge, heavy doors to the courtyard were swung wide open, letting in the soft morning light and filling the dining area with cool, fresh air. The comforting aroma of coffee and the sight of a hearty homemade spread—fluffy organic egg dishes, fresh-baked breads, and sweet jams made from local fruit—created a perfect start to the day. Guests often linger over breakfast, swapping stories of their adventures, which adds to the warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Inside Capitol Reef, we passed orchards planted by Mormon pioneers more than a century ago. We continued our drive through the park’s diverse terrain of stone domes, sheer cliffs, and winding canyons. While much of the park is accessed by unpaved roads, the most popular portion of the park is accessed via its Scenic Drive, a 7.9-mile paved road which continues as Grand Wash Road—a 2-mile steep-walled wash. We were driving a standard passenger car and had no problem navigating the winding dirt road. Driving through the narrow canyon, sandstone cliffs rose hundreds of feet overhead, layered in red, pink, and cream. The road ended at trailheads for the Grand Wash and Cassidy Arch trails, where we hiked the rest of the way to see the arch up close.

The park felt quieter and more intimate than Zion or Bryce, giving us time to slow down and truly take in the landscape. We wandered along peaceful trails, often pausing to listen to the wind rattling through the canyons. Along the way, we discovered a spot with centuries-old petroglyphs—ancient images etched into the stone by the Fremont people. Depicting humans, animals, and abstract symbols, these carvings provide a fascinating glimpse into the lives, beliefs, and traditions of the region’s earliest inhabitants.

When it was time to head back toward Bryce, we chose to return along Highway 12, one of America’s most scenic drives. Having driven it from west to east on our way to Torrey, we decided to repeat the route in reverse. We often do this when we discover a particularly beautiful highway—the views are different from the opposite direction, and it feels like an entirely new experience. From red cliffs near Capitol Reef to the forested heights of Boulder Mountain and the narrow ridges of the Hogsback, Highway 12 offered stunning scenery both ways.

Near Bryce, we stayed at the Bullberry Inn in Tropic, a welcoming family-run bed and breakfast and working farm. Chickens, goats, pigs, horses, cows, cats, and dogs added to its rustic charm, especially for families with children who sometimes get the chance to help feed a bottle calf. Evenings brought dazzling stargazing, with the Milky Way stretching across the desert sky. Mornings began with homemade breakfasts featuring fresh-baked bread and eggs from the inn’s free-range chickens. The Bullberry Inn’s charm lay not only in its homey atmosphere but also in the ease it offered.

Looking back, the trip’s memories are a mosaic of colors, textures, and feelings: the cliffs of Zion, Bryce’s hoodoos, the orchards in Capitol Reef. Hotels gave us convenience, but bed and breakfasts offered a deeper connection—to the landscape, to local history, and to each other.

From cooking dinner under the Bryce sky to retracing Highway 12 for new perspectives, every day brought small adventures and lasting impressions. Utah offered more than incredible scenery; it gifted us memories that will forever call us back to these red rock landscapes.