Travel: Appalachian Heartland

Beulah Land B&B Inn

As the heat of summer began settling into North Alabama—thick and unrelenting—my husband and I found ourselves craving cooler air and a change of scenery. There’s something about those first few sticky June days that makes you want to toss luggage in the car and head north—especially if it means trading mosquitoes for mountain breezes. And we knew just the place: the Appalachian Mountains. There’s nothing quite like fresh mountain air, especially at night when it cools down and mist settles into the valleys.

One thing we always make a point to do when we travel is avoid the interstates as much as possible. We prefer the backroads—it might add a little time to the drive, but the scenery more than makes up for it. You never know what kind of unexpected surprises you’ll stumble upon. On one stretch of dirt road, we even spotted a black bear coming out of the woods.

Our first planned stop took us just across the Kentucky border to Cumberland Falls State Resort Park, nestled in the heart of the Daniel Boone National Forest. Often called the “Niagara of the South,” the falls truly lived up to the name. We stood at the overlook, watching the powerful rush of water tumble into the river below—it’s one of those sights that makes you want to pause and take it all in.

Cumberland Falls at night featuring a “moonbow”

Cumberland Falls is one of only two places in the world where you can see a moonbow—a rare rainbow created by moonlight. We weren’t there at the right time to catch it, but we talked about making a trip back during a full moon just to see it.

The park is a hiker’s paradise, with 17 miles of scenic trails. We didn’t make it to all of them, but the ones we did explore were peaceful, quiet, and absolutely beautiful.

After our hike, we headed to our lodging for the night—The Inn at Beulah Farm, a cozy bed and breakfast located on a 38-acre farm just outside Whitley City, and only four miles from the park. Our stay included a hearty, home-cooked breakfast with fresh pastries, biscuits, eggs, bacon, and fruit—all prepared from scratch with high-quality ingredients.

While chatting with the owners, I learned they didn’t just open a guest house—they built it from the ground up, with Keith actually doing most of the work himself. He and Shari paid special attention to every detail. Their dedication is evident in the thoughtful touches throughout the property.

Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

The inn is close to other attractions like Natural Arch and the Big South Fork Scenic Railway. We weren’t able to work it into our schedule, but when we return, we plan to take the scenic train ride from Stearns to the historic coal mining camp of Blue Heron. The train ride itself winds through lush forested hills and across scenic mountain streams, eventually arriving at Blue Heron, also known as Mine 18.

Blue Heron was once a thriving coal mining community during the 1930s and 1940s. Today, there’s nothing left of the original town, but the site has been preserved as a fascinating outdoor learning museum.

Many former mining towns in the region have become ghost towns—abandoned as coal seams ran dry, mining practices changed, or the industry shifted elsewhere. Some faded due to environmental challenges or economic decline, while others were simply left behind when progress moved on. While a few of these towns, like Blue Heron, have been thoughtfully preserved as historical landmarks, many have vanished entirely, reclaimed by nature or lost to time.

Our journey continued along scenic roads winding past abandoned towns nestled in narrow valleys. As we drove through the Appalachian Mountains of southeast Kentucky, the roads twisted and turned through deep hollows and climbed steep hills, with walls of solid rock rising right along the roadway. The landscape is both rugged and incredibly beautiful.

Because our trip had sparked quite an interest in abandoned mining towns, we decided to take a detour and head to Butcher Hollow (pronounced by Loretta as “Butcher Holler”), the tiny coal mining community where Loretta Lynn—the “Coal Miner’s Daughter”—was born and raised. Loretta’s father worked in the coal mines, and the hardships of that life would later shape her iconic music. We drove by the small schoolhouse Loretta attended and then to the original Lynn family cabin, preserved as a humble reminder of the grit and resilience of Appalachian families. Driving through the tiny community of Van Lear and standing in front of Loretta Lynn’s childhood home seemed to bring the lyrics of her songs to life. It’s not just a stop for music fans—it’s a glimpse into Appalachian history and the life of a woman who gave it a voice.

Our next stop was Lynch, Kentucky—a once-thriving mining town where we took the Portal 31 Coal Mine Tour—a true highlight of the trip. At its peak in the 1940s, Lynch’s population soared to nearly 10,000, making it the largest coal camp in the world. Founded in 1917 by the U.S. Coal & Coke Company, a subsidiary of U.S. Steel, Lynch was designed as a model company town to house workers for the nearby mines.

Today, Lynch is a much quieter place, with approximately 581 residents. Driving through town, it’s hard not to feel the weight of all that’s been lost—the abandoned homes and the silence where once there was the noise and bustle of a booming coal economy. It’s sobering to think about the families who built their lives here, only to see the industry that sustained them slowly disappear. Like so many other coal towns in Appalachia, Lynch was deeply impacted by the decline of mining jobs, and the community has struggled in the years since.

But there’s also hope. Through efforts like the Portal 31 tour and other community-led initiatives, Lynch is working to preserve its history and bring new life to the town.

Abandonded Mining Town in West Virginia

At Portal 31, we boarded a small motorized rail car that took us deep into the heart of the mountain—literally into the mine. As the darkness closed in around us, a series of stops inside the tunnels revealed life-sized animated scenes and immersive audio narration that brought the story of Appalachian coal mining to life. Each part of the tour offered insights into the changing equipment, tough working conditions, and daily routines of the miners from the early 20th century through modern times. It was both humbling and fascinating to see how dangerous, exhausting, and vital this work had once been.

The rail car delivered us back into the daylight with a deeper understanding of the sacrifices made in the name of progress—and a new appreciation for the generations who carved out a life deep within those Appalachian hills.

From there, we headed toward Wise, Virginia, along one of the most scenic drives of the trip. Known as the Dragon Slayer, this twisting highway boasts more than 226 significant curves and reaches Kentucky’s highest point atop Black Mountain. It’s a legendary ride, especially for motorcyclists seeking a thrilling challenge. The road wound through the mountains, unveiling rolling ridges, distant peaks, and breathtaking views at every turn.

Eventually, we reached our destination: Wise, “a small mountain town with a big personality.” Perched high on the Appalachian Plateau, it offers a lush mountain-town atmosphere, panoramic views, and cooler temperatures year-round—just what we’d been hoping for.

We stayed at Nottingham Place, a beautifully preserved Queen Anne–style home built in 1898, just a block off Main Street. Owners Kim and Ben were gracious and welcoming—the kind of hosts who instantly make you feel at home. After several days on the road, we welcomed the quiet comfort their home offered. The expansive front porch, with its stately white columns, looked very inviting. With plenty of rocking chairs and wicker seating areas, it was the perfect spot to unwind and reflect on our journey. Our room was spacious, comfortable, and tastefully decorated, offering just the right blend of charm and coziness. The upstairs visitor’s foyer was stocked with a variety of much-appreciated snacks and coffee for two weary travelers. My husband, who loves an evening snack of milk and cookies, was happy to find that as well. I know someone else who enjoys their milk and cookies—and that would be Santa. After Thanksgiving, Santa stays at Nottingham Place through mid-December to practice going up and down chimneys—prepping for the big night ahead. Families can book an overnight stay and treat their children to a magical visit with Santa himself.

While Nottingham Place is not a bed and breakfast, the inn was more inviting than many that are. Though they don’t serve breakfast, they do provide cereal, to go along with their milk and cookies, coffee, and other snacks—more than enough fuel to get us back on the road.

By the time we crossed into West Virginia, we were ready to change things up a bit. After visiting several old mining towns, we decided to skip a few that we had added to our list. As interesting as they were, we felt we’d learned enough about the history of coal mining for one trip. Instead, we shifted our attention to the scenic side of things and let the landscape take the lead.

Cumberland Gap National Historical Park

One of the highlights was the New River Gorge, home to one of the oldest rivers on the continent—even though the name might suggest otherwise. The views were wide and open, and the rugged beauty of the gorge was breathtaking. The New River Gorge Bridge, stretching high above the water, is one of the longest single-arch bridges in the Western Hemisphere. Seeing it in person was an impressive sight.

New River Gorge National Park

Each stop along our journey reminded us of how much beauty is tucked away in the mountains just a few hours from home. From roaring waterfalls and echoing mine shafts to ancient rivers and small towns full of character. On our last day of traveling through West Virginia, we put the windows down to enjoy the cool mountain air one last time before heading home. We love Alabama the beautiful, but it sure was nice to take a break from the summer heat.

We already know this won’t be our last trip. Appalachia still has more to share, and we can’t wait to see where the backroads lead us next.